click to enlarge…
The upper pitches
Grade & Length: IV, WI5, 150m of ice
Approach: From the town of Banff follow signs to Sulphur Mountain & Upper Hot Springs just above town. Park in the big lot above Sulphur Mountain Gondola station but below Upper Hot Springs.
Follow the trail from back corner of lot. After about 30 minutes at first big downhill switchback, go straight on vague trail into trees. About 30 meters into the trees the small trail heads up a rib through the forest for about 30min, then contours left into the big avalanche path. Up the avalanche path to the climb. About 1.5-2.5hrs depending on snow.
Route Description: An excellent route and well worth the longer approach!
A nice 40m pitch of WI4 leads to a short walk up snow to the rest of the climb. 110 more meters of great climbing with the crux pillar about half way up! There is a bolted belay behind the start of the crux pillar.
Descent: Rappel the route using v-threads.
Gear: Screws. Two ropes are nice for the descent.
Objective Hazards: Big avalanche terrain above.