Gallstones

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The best pitch of ice on Gallstones.

Grade: II, WI4

Route Length: 75m of ice

Approach: Park at the signed Allstones Lake Trailhead, about 15 minutes West of Nordegg, or 5 minutes East of the Mount Michner Lookout. Walk 1.5 hours up Allstones Creek(not the trail!) to the second drainage on the right. You can see that there is a canyon and the first step is just visible through the trees shortly before reaching the drainage.

Route Description: Two short steps of WI2 lead to the crux 30m WI4 pillar. Another 10 minute walk leads to a variety of WI2 and WI3 smears. The best and biggest looking two were climbed on the FA. The first ascentionist hiked another hour up the gully but no more ice was found.


The upper ice.

Descent: Walk down through the trees on skiers right.

Gear: Screws.

Objective Hazards: The climb is in a bowl feature, but there is rarely enough snow in this area to create avalanche hazard.

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