But My Daddy’s a Psycho

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But My Daddy's a Psycho ice climb beside Murchison Falls. click to enlarge…

But My Daddy’s a Psycho in easy conditions

Grade & Length: IV, WI5, 200m (with a finish up Murchison Falls)

Approach: If coming from Lake Louise, drive North along the Icefeilds Parkway for about 45 minutes to the last drainage before a double roadcut which marks the start of a long hill down to the Saskatchewan River Crossing. If it is your first time here, it is easiest to just drive to the roadcut then turn around and drive back to the drainage. Park on the side of the road. The top of the climb is visible from the road and if you will be starting in the dark it is recommended to scout it out the day before.

Hike up the drainage for a couple minutes, then move into the trees on the left side and continue uphill for about an hour until the climbs come into view. Continue up low angle open slopes to the route. About 1.5 hrs total.

Route Description: A more challenging line just to the left of Murchison Falls that doesn’t always form. Obvious when formed, it can also be climbed as a great mixed route with a rock rack. From the top of the route, traverse easily to the right and finish up the last pitch of Murchison Falls.

Murchison Falls area ice climbs. click to enlarge…

Murchison Falls, My Daddy’s a Psycho, Virtual Reality (WI6 – unformed), and Lessons of Oka (moderate mixed).

Descent: Rappel the route using V-threads & bolted anchors.

Gear: Screws, 2 ropes for descent. Full rock rack if in mixed conditions.

Objective Hazards: During times of high hazard there is some avalanche hazard on the final part of the approach, but none from above the route. The wind often forms overhanging snow & ice features up high which can collapse, particularly on sunny days.

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