The Maul

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The Maul mixed climb in to enlarge…
The Maul on Wedge Peak as seen from the drainage below, the route climbs directly up the gash in the middle of the face.

Grade: IV, M7

Route Length: 300m

Approach: Various approaches have been used, including up the drainage and up the ridge on the left. Both take a couple hours or more.

Route Description: A mini alpine route on Wedge Peak with lots of challenging drytooling. First done by Rapheal Slawinski & Will Gadd, it has had very few ascents.

Route finding is easy, just follow the gash to the top. Every pitch provides difficult drytooling. Some of the lower pitches are a bit loose and hard to protect.

click to enlarge…
The crux pitch.

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Exciting chimneys on the last pitch.

Descent: Descend off the left side via the scramblers route.

Gear: A good sized rock rock including pitons & a spectre. 1 ice screw may be useful near the bottom. 2 ropes would be wise if you think you might not make the top.

Objective Hazards: The Maul is in alpine terrain complete with avalache hazard, rockfall, etc.

Links: Blog posting from second ascent.

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