French Reality

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French Reality mixed climb at the Stanley Headwallclick to enlarge…
French Reality at the Stanley Headwall.

Grade: V, WI6+, 5.8

Route Length: 150m

Approach: Park at the Stanley Glacier Trail parking lot (signed), about 15 minutes along Highway 93S heading towards Radium from the Trans-Canada Highway. Hike up the trail for about an hour until almost below the route, then work you way up slopes on the right that eventually lead to a steep traverse ledge above the first small cliff band. There are a few bolts on the traverse ledge that allow for a running belay. It can be dangerous in poor snow conditions. Skis are usually required for the approach except early season.

Route Description: An excellent climb at the Stanley Headwall, and a good introduction to the harder climbing in the area.
Climb a short mixed corner to reach the main cliffs. Next, climb a long pitch of 5.8 WI5 up a groove with generally good gear. Climb two pitches of very steep ice to reach the top.

ice climber on mixed pitch of French Reality at the Stanley Headwallclick to enlarge…
Climber nearing the top of the long mixed pitch.

Descent: Rappel the route.

Gear: Screws including stubbies, rock rack. 2 ropes recommended.

Objective Hazards: Lots of avalanche terrain on the approach as well as from above.

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