Cascade Falls

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Cascade Falls ice climb on Cascade Mountain above Banff. click to enlarge…

Cascade Falls in good conditions.

Grade & Length: III, WI3, 300m (80m of real climbing)

Approach: The route is blatantly obvious to all who drive past it on Highway 1. Turn off the Trans-Canada Highway (#1) at the eastern of the 2 exits into Banff townsite. Head about 100m towards Lake Minnewanka and park at the first pullout on the left. The route is easily visible from here. Walk across the meadow and up a good trail to the base of the route.

Cascade Falls & Rogan's Gully ice climbs on Cascade Mountain above Banff, Alberta. click to enlarge…

Cascade Falls & Rogan’s Gully.

Route Description: The route is much lower angle than it appears from the Highway, and many parties scramble up the lower steps unroped. Near the top there are two pitches of nice WI3 that is usually a hooked out staircase by mid-season. Bolted rock anchors make good belay spots. Another pitch can be found 5 minutes walk above.

Cascade mountain & ice climbs from across the valley. click to enlarge…

Cascade Mountain from Mt. Rundle. Cascade Falls is visible in the middle of the lower cliffs. The large avalanche slopes are visible above.

Descent: Rappel the route on bolted rock anchors, and possibly a V-thread or two.

Gear: Screws.

Objective Hazards: Big avalanche slopes above, bigger than they look from below! Also, during sunny periods, large chunks of ice have been known to fall off from high on the route. Rockfall could also be an issue at times. This climb has had numerous accidents & fatalities over the years, be carefull!

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