click to enlarge…
Suffer Machine in good conditions.
Grade & Length: V, WI5, M7, 200m
Approach: Park at the Stanley Glacier Trail parking lot (signed), about 15 minutes along Highway 93S heading towards Radium from the Trans-Canada Highway. Hike or ski up the trail past French Reality, and a number of other mixed routes, until the climb is visible above after a little over an hour. Head up steep slopes (avalanche prone) to the base.
Route Description: A sweet ice route with a challenging mixed start that can also be aided with a bit of free climbing.
Start up obvious cracks on a rock pillar on the right. Climb up it and then over a roof to a smooth face above with lots of bolts, many bolts later you will reach a a bolted anchor. Continue up and left to gain the ice. Note that a rock rack is required for the first section, and may be usefull for supplementing the bolts higher up. Some of the bolts are missing hangers and it is necessary to hitch them with nuts. Climb good ice for another 3 pitches to the top.
Descent: Rappel the route.
Gear: Screws, including stubbies, a rock rack, and lots of draws (18ish for 1st pitch).
Objective Hazards: Avalanche hazard. Some of the bolts are questionable.