Farside Area

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The farside ice climbing area on the Yoho Valley road.click to enlarge…
The Farside, the main routes are the four central pillars. Some easier lines can be found on the right.

Grade: III, WI5

Route Length: 150m

Approach: Park in the lot at the start of the Yoho Valley Road (Takkakaw Falls road) just east of Field. The road is closed in the winter. Hike, ski, or snowshoe up the road past a number of other routes. A short ways after Iron Curtain, the road starts to switchback up the hillside. Leave the road and follow the river past Footloose & Fancy Free and some unnamed easy routes for another half hour until the climbs are visible above.

Route Description: The four main pillars have all been climbed in the WI5 to 5+ range. The right hand pillar often fills out to a broad curtain and is known as “Hell’s Cafeteria”. All the routes are hardest at the top. Some snow clearing is usually required on the lower angled mid sections of the routes. A recommended option is to climb one of them, then make 1 rappel and climb the upper pitch on one or more of the other routes.
There are also some easier routes to the right, and a variety of routes to the left ranging from WI3 to WI6. Some newer routes have also been climbed further up the canyon.

The Farside ice climbs up the Takkakaw Falls road near Field, BCclick to enlarge…

The four main routes at The Farside area.

Descent: Rappel.

Gear: Screws.

Objective Hazards: Avalanche hazard on the approach slope, as well as from the low angle sections of the routes themselves.

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