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Nemesis at the Stanley Headwall, BC, Dec 2009 click to enlarge…

Nemesis at the Stanley Headwall.

Grade & Length: V, WI6, 140m

Approach: Park at the Stanley Glacier Trail parking lot (signed), about 15 minutes along Highway 93S heading towards Radium from the Trans-Canada Highway. Hike or ski up the trail past French Reality, Suffer Machine, and a number of other mixed routes until the climb is visible above after about 1.5 hours. Head up steep slopes (avalanche prone) to the base.

Route Description: The route can be done in as little as two 70m pitches, but 3 or 4 pitches is more common. There is a good belay cave at 70m on the left with a bolted station. The next pitch is usually the crux and can involve some wild ice mushroom features. Some seasons it gets hooked out and goes at an easier grade. It’s not uncommon to get a bit wet at some point on the route.

Climber on first pitch of Nemesis click to enlarge…

Descent: Rappel using v-threads and the bolted station at the halfway cave.

Gear: Screws.

Objective Hazards: Avalanche hazard on the approach and from above the route.

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